needs to be on-hand.
The oldest PS/2s have hit 33 years... Some were used in
clean environments, some in cotton mills, some as
industrial controllers.... Some times, all you need to
is wipe off the case.. but others were stored in humid
environments, and the interior of the case is rusted.
Shipping seems to be damaging, busted bezels and bent
3/16 nutdriver [remove 4-40 hex posts, smaller screws]
1/4 nutdriver [larger screws]
Small straight blade screwdriver [floppy service]
Small phillips [0? for floppy service]
Security Torx [T10, IIRC]
Security phillips [#2?]
1/4 wide straight blade screwdriver
Needle nose pliers / tweezers [Major Tom]
Vise Grips / Channel Locks [for reforming sheetmetal]
Headlamp / flashlight / trouble lamp
5/32 deep socket [Model M case screws]
Magnifier [goggles, loupe, whatever]
Soap and water
Canned electronics duster [Air Jet is great.. but costly]
Vacuum cleaner [IBM recommends vacuum, not compressed air]
409 spray-on cleaner [handles most grime and markers]
Isopropyl Alcohol [Major Tom]
Evapo-Rust (used liquid is non-toxic) [removes ALL
oxidation, including rust and anodizing]
Naval Jelly [used liquid is toxic]
Goo Gone (not universally effective) [stickers]
DeOxit contact cleaner
Brillo pads [Model 50 / 70 / 90 planar power contact
Rust-Oleum Professional Galvanizing Compound Spray
Bank note / bond paper [buffing edge contacts]
Paper towels / work towels
Pen / Pencil / Paper [documenting chipsets or assembly
DMM [continuity beep is a plus]
AVO [Amp / Volt / Ohm [WBST]
Wrap plugs [serial, parallel, network]
ShopVac [Jim Shorney]
Air Compressor (beware of too much pressure!) [Major Tom]
Brighten Discolored Plastic
Retro-Brite is a significant
procedure that you can use on clone component plastics
that have discolored over the years. IIRC, most IBM
plastics aren't affected as much, due to limited levels of
bromides. Once you Retro-Brite, the remaining Bromide
compounds will still travel to the surface, and eventually
discolor plastics. The presence of UV hastens the
Detect Flat Pack Cold Solder
Dental picks can be used to
"sweep" the leads of a flat pack. As long as the leads are
connected with solder, the pitch stays the same. Loose
leads have a higher pitch [ting]. [Jose Deras]
Remove Surface or Deep Rust
Evapo-Rust is quite useful in
removing surface rust -AND- deep rust. Rust inhibits
dependable contact between any EMI shields and the steel
of the computer case. The liquid form is the BOMB, but the
jelly form has significant consistency problems. Naval
Jelly might be better on vertical surfaces.
Re-Galvanize Damaged Case
Galvanizing Compound Spray
For those of us that have faced a rusty steel frame while
restoring our PS/2s, using Evapo-Rust or other rust
remover, will remove the rust and leave the base metal
Rust-Oleum Professional Galvanizing Compound Spray
7584838 Bright Gray 020066758486
7585838 Cold Gray 020066758585 [Cold Grey
looks to be a closer match.]
"Instantly galvanize metal surfaces to protect them from
corrosion with Rust-Oleum Professional Galvanizing
Compound Spray. This 93% pure zinc coating applies a
galvanized film with cathodic protection, which resists
rusts, scratches and chips."
I used Rust-Oleum "Professional"
Cold-Galvanizing Spray. The coating ends up being a shade
or two darker and not as "shiny", but when you redo the
whole inside of a case it ends up looking pretty good and
"like it belongs".
Clean Adapter Edge Contacts or Keyboard Mylar Tape Connector
Bank note / bond paper is used to buff the MCA adapter's
edge contacts. It makes the gold shine -AND- it does not
leave any crumbles -AND- it isn't an aggressive abrasive.
When you work on a Model M keyboard, the mylar sheet has
metalized traces that slip into those clip connectors. If
the contacts look like tarnished silver, use a folded bill
to buff then to a light silver color.
Cleaning MCA Slot Spring Fingers
WBST said: install and remove an adapter from the same
socket a few times (max. 3 should do it) to perform mutual
oxidation / contamination removal. Chemicals [like DeOxit]
are a last resort in my opinion, minor abrasion should
clean off any slight oxidation or thin film deposits, say
with a toothpick?
Remove Green "Spooge" From Leaky
Make up a thin paste of baking soda and
water. Apply with Q-Tip or toothbrush, swabbing or
brushing residue away. Rinse with water. Let dry.
Remove Serial / Parallel / Video
Port Hex Posts
You will need a 3/16 thin wall nutdriver to fit
over the 4-40 threaded post -AND- be thin enough so as to
clear the shield.
Clean Floppy / Tape Heads /
Keycaps / Cases / Plastic Parts / Planars / Adapters
Isopropyl Alcohol (Denatured as well) on Q-Tips can remove
contaminants on the heads or capstan wheels, metal parts,
components on PCBs or adapters..
Repair Cracked Non-Stressed
In many instances, cracked plastic in NON-STRESSED areas
can be successfully repaired with "Plastic Surgery"
adhesive. IF you try to repair threaded plastic screw
posts or bendable parts, the repair will crack again...
Open Power Supply Units
[Screws, Rivets, Tamper-Proof]
PSUs can attract dust bunnies and oily dust [among other
things]. To open most PSU cases, you will need Phillips or
Torx security bits with the little post in the center. A
few units [P70 and P75] are riveted closed, requiring you
to drill them out [use a chisel or screwdriver to help
prevent the rivet from spinning while you drill it out]
and replace the removed rivets with metal screws [careful
of the screw's length!]. Model 60, 65, and 80 units may
use an odd one-way tamper-proof screw, try a par of
Vice-Grips or similar.
Blow Out PSUs, MCA Slots, Around
Random errors and thermal shutdowns can be caused by
contaminants inside MCA slots, PSUs, and dust/grime that
has settled on/under components. Thermally stressed
electronic components [build-up of dust/grime over cooling
fins / blockage of air flow] will have a shorter
Cans of computer duster will handle light dust, but the
heavier layers, dust bunniez, and deeply set components
may benefit from the judicious use of an air compressor
set to a low pressure [10psi?]. High pressure air can bend
thin sheetmetal, damage floppy head mechanisms, and/or
lift components off the PCB.
Close Model 85 and Model 95 Side
The 95 style case is renown for durability and... heft.
You tend to use two hands, but could really use three...
So... you have run the cables so they won't be crimped by
the closing side wall. You carefully lift up the side wall
with two hands, lining up the lip on the rear so that it
fits into the case. At the same time, you keep the upper
"lip" of the side wall over the slightly rebated upper
edge of the case.
Now... this is where proper form beats out speed. Push the
side wall to the rear so it's rear "lip" fits into the
case. Place your LEFT hand on the top-left of the case,
opposite the side wall. With your RIGHT hand, grasp the
side wall and while keeping a rearward pressure, rotate
the side wall so it mates with the case. Rearward pressure
keeps the side wall in the proper position, front to back.
If the side wall is allowed to close without being pushed
to the rear, the front edge of the side wall will prevent
the front bezel from being able to hook in and swing down.
Do NOT place your LEFT hand on the top-right side of the
case next to the side wall... If your fingers stray into
the space between the side wall and the top-right of the
case, you will get a pinch injury. You CAN loose blood.
Insert Blank MCA Slot Cover
These dapper devils can slice you open quite easily. Think
about it, a very thin stamped metal part that requires a
bit of force to install. If you run with scissors, your
blood will pave the way to the future....
Look at the MCA slot cover from the front. At the bottom
is a "U" that slides over the shaft of the thumbscrew. At
the top is a "T" with very short arms. Now the simple way
is to stuff the slot cover down into the aluminum slot
guide. But.. that isn't the most reliable method...
The way I finally adopted is to use two hands, one inside
the case and the other outside the case. Using your thumb
and index finger, slide the cover down into the guide. Now
re-position your fingers to control the slot cover. Using
your index finger and middle finger on the inside, and
your index finger and middle finger on the outside, slide
the cover into the guide. The pressure on BOTH sides
allows you to reliably fit the "U" over the thumbscrew
If the bottom of the cover sticks out too far to the
outside, it might allow the "U" to straddle the
thumbscrew, and if you have the newer systems with
anodized aluminum thumbscrew, you will scrape a nice shiny
cut around the softer aluminum as you try [and fail!] to
tighten the thumbscrew down onto the slot cover. Looks
Remember that short "T" at the top? Now we are entering
the advanced geek territory. The aluminum slot guides are
narrowly placed to each other, such that the short arms of
the "T" can be above or below each other, preventing the
top cross arms from being fully seated.
Note that the recess at the top of the aluminum slot guide
[for the cross arms] is quite a bit wider, front to back,
than needed to simply hold the cross arms. That is so you
can place one slot cover's cross arms to the front of the
recess, and place the other towards the rear of the
Close Model 85 and Model 95 PSU
After you finish changing your memory, you will need to
re-seat the swinging PSU. There are a few techniques to
prevent damage and frustration...
Push the PSU towards the REAR of the system. The PSU rides
on two pins on the bottom outside edge that point to the
front. If it has worked it's way forward, simmply rotating
it up won't result in successful mating of the PSU plug
and the planar receptacle. Also note there is an angled
guide at the bottom front, outer edge of the case, that
the PSU is guided by when rotating it back into position.
Carefully route SCSI cables out of the way. Some cable
routing for SCSI cables lets the cable get in the way of
the PSU when it is swung back up. Fast/Wide cables with
flat n twist cables require more care, due to the small
easily crushed cables... Cable sheathing, either techflex
or wire loom, keeps most damage from happening.
Push any CDROMs forward so their cables are not in the arc
made by the swinging PSU. I call this a guillotine...
Use one hand to push the HD power cables to the front, out
of the arc of the swinging PSU.
Now comes a common problem. When re-seating the PSU so it
mates with the planar, you need to press the top of the
PSU so it mates with the planar receptacle. While holding
the PSU in place, push down the blue knob [spring
pressure] and screw it in until it seats. Do not use more
than finger pressure since the T knob depends on an e-clip
on the shaft to hold it together. Screw it down until
If you use your full hand to tighten the T knob there is a
decent chance that the e-clip will pop off the shaft and
fall down into the system [bad enough] or on earlier
models, possibly fall INTO the PSU...